Science

Science of Foot Peeling Masks

June 16, 2020

When quarantine started I decided to do a lot of self care so I made a list of options. First up was a foot peeling mask! I saw all over Instagram these women trying them out and I figured why not since I can’t go anywhere or do anything. This is the optimal time. So Amazon here I came. This is the exact one I got.

The instructions were simple enough. Put the bootie on and wear for 1 hour then remove. I wore shorts so it wouldn’t get on my pants and sat on the couch the entire time. It felt slimy and cold. After the hour is up, you rinse your feet off and wait. The package says to wait 3-7 days before peeling starts. You shouldn’t pull any of the dead skin but I did it anyways because I’m a rebel who does not like being told what to do. But really…I couldn’t resist pulling it off. 

Here is a picture of right after the mask was on. As you can see no peeling.

On day 2 you could tell that my skin was tightening.

Day 3 was the same as day 2.

I started peeling 4 days after I put the masks on. It was little at first; just around my toes.

Day 5-7

Everything went downhill from there and it got INTENSE! It was coming off in sheets!!! 

Day 8

It slowed down to just a little bit here and there. My heel was still cracking but hadn’t completely peeled. 

Day 9

All of my feet had peeled. It was incredible. Everything was new and my feet were so soft and pretty! 

Now i know you only came to look at the pictures of my peeling feet but I figured we should get to the science of it all! 

The ingredients in most of the foot masks are similar if not the same. They consist of Water, Alcohol, Lactic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Arginine, Butylene Glycol, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glucose, O-Cymen-5-ol, Citric Acid, Malic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, Nasturtium Officinale Extract, Arctium Lappa Root Extract, Saponaria Officinalis Leaf Extract, Hedera Helix (Ivy) Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Clematis Vitalba Leaf Extract, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Salicylic Acid. 

The active ingredients (what is considered the material that activates whatever process you want to happen) are lactic acid and glycolic acid. These acids are considered alpha hydroxy acids that fall into the category of chemical exfoliants. Every alpha hydroxy acid has a carboxylic acid that is two bonds away from a hydroxyl group. 

Exfoliation can happen in two ways: physical or chemical. With the physical type, it’s exactly what it sounds like; something is physically coming off the skin in large quantities. Chemical, however, penetrates through the skin and breaks down whatever we are looking for into small pieces and brings them to the top of the skin which is the natural process that occurs but the chemical exfoliants speed the process up. 

The mechanism of action for alpha hydroxy acids is still somewhat unknown. Some people think that they break down the desmosomes that hold the corneocytes together (which basically means the “glue” that holds the “dead skin” together comes apart). Another theory that is still not justified is that the alpha hydroxy acids cause calcium to rush to the dead skin and the excess calcium causes the exfoliation (explosion of the corneocytes). 

The alpha hydroxy acids actually penetrate the skin because of their low pH and with the assistance of permeation enhancers. Most of the time alcohol is used as a permeation enhancer because it’s ability to actually break through tough skin. This is why it takes a few days for the magic to happen. Basically the top layer of skin needs to separate from the bottom/under layer which takes time. 

I really recommend this foot mask if you are looking to get your feet ready for sandal season! My feet are forever thankful and I look forward to doing it again in six months right before boot season! 

Xox, Z 

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